Loire Valley - Chambord Castle
I remember the first time I saw Chambord Castle. It’s surrounded by a 20-mile wall, and a thick forest that served the kings well for hunting. Several years ago, on a slightly rainy day, I was cycling on one of the six beautiful alleys that lead to it. You don’t catch a glimpse of the enormous mansion until you’re close. And then, all of a sudden, it’s standing in front of you in its majestic Renaissance glory.
François I
Razing a fortified castle that belonged to the Counts of Blois, King François I began construction of this ‘hunting lodge’ in 1519. Mystery surrounds the architects, but it is likely that Leonardo da Vinci had something to do with its design. The Italian genius was close to François I and participated in many of his projects. Da Vinci was the king’s guest from 1516 to his death in 1519, and lived in a manor house just up the hill from the castle in Amboise.
Chambord castle wasn’t ever meant to be lived in for long periods. Other than the game in the forest, there weren’t any nearby towns for food and supplies to feed the king’s entourage of up to 2,000 people. In addition, the rooms are massive, and the high ceilings made heating a challenge.
François I spent less than two months there in all, usually for short hunting visits. After his death in 1547, the castle was largely abandoned by the French kings until the 1600s when Louis XIII began restoration. Visiting the castle today, you also see the influence of Louis XIV, who refurnished the royal apartments and added a 1,200-horse stable.
Architectural Highlights
The castle is famous for its 440 rooms and 365 fireplaces, and two of its highlights are the double-helix staircase and the rooftop. The two branches of the staircase wind together to the rooftop without ever meeting. The king could walk down the stairs without ever crossing the people walking up it. Some say this served for defensive purposes; others say it was so his various mistresses wouldn’t run into each other. Whatever the case may be, it’s an amazing piece of architecture.
A sort of rooftop lantern caps the staircase and fills it with natural light. From here you step out onto the roof terrace, which is probably my favorite part. You wander through a virtual maze of expertly crafted columns, chimneys, windows and gables and enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding countryside. This is where the kings’ court would spend a lot of its time, celebrating with parties, watching tournaments, and examining military drills on the castle grounds.
Loire Valley Wines
The wines of the Loire? Well, they’re some of my favorites, but they’ll have to wait for another article. For those of you joining us there in June, we’ll taste the whole range. I can’t wait!
Share |
