Spotlight On: The Loire Valley
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| Chambord Castle: the Loire Valley |
The Loire Valley. That’s kings and castles, right? What about wine? With a couple famous exceptions, most of the Loire’s wines are little known outside France. That’s good news, because you’ll find good wines at low prices.
The Loire Valley is France’s third largest wine region; a tad smaller than the Rhone Valley, and about half the size of immense Bordeaux. The Loire River springs from the Massif Central, in the center of the country. France’s longest river (629 miles), it flows through little-known vineyards such as the Côte Roannaise, and elite appellations like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the home of Sauvignon Blanc. It glimpses majestic castles near Amboise and Blois, and the vineyards of Muscadet.
Versatile Chenin Blanc
In such a large area, you’d expect to find a lot of variety — and you’d be right. But you can count the main grape varieties on a hand or two: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon, and a smattering of Pinot Noir and Gamay produce most of the wine. Often, the diversity comes in how the wine is made. Take Chenin Blanc, for example. You could accompany an entire five–course dinner with wines made only from this versatile grape. Start with a sparkling Crémant de Loire with your aperitif. Enjoy a crisp young Vouvray with a first course, and a full-bodied aged one with your blanquette de veau (veal) dish. Pair the cheese course with a Coteaux du Layon, and pack away your dessert with a sweet Savennières made with, you guessed it, 100% Chenin Blanc.
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| Chenonceau Castle |
A five-course dinner was but a snack to the kings of France. In the Middle Ages, they left bustling Paris behind to build new residences in strongholds such as Blois and Amboise. Or they depleted their coffers (and the pockets of peasants) with elaborate hunting lodges; King François I’s Chambord Castle for example. If you’ve been on tour with us, you’ve wandered through that immense, 440-room palace and climbed the intertwining double-helix staircase — some believe Leonardo da Vinci designed it. François ended up spending just a few weeks there, but at least he succeeded in impressing his archenemy; Holy Roman Emperor Charles V said “Chambord is the epitome of human ingenuity” during his 1539 visit to the chateau.
Joan of Arc
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| Joan of Arc |
Women have played a decisive role in history here too. On tour last year we saw they were finishing a six-year restoration of the castle in Chinon. It was already humbling to explore the ruins, knowing what happened there, but now its former glory is easier to imagine. In 1429 Joan of Arc galloped to the fortress for an audience with King Charles VII. She persuaded him to give her an army to “boot the English out of France.” There’s a lot of myth and legend in the story now, but even the bare facts are mind-boggling. This 17-year-old girl convinced the king she could lead his forces to victory. Could that happen these days?
Just as surprising — it worked! She won battles and turned around the Hundred Years War to the French’s favor. The king dropped her like a hot potato after that and let her burn at the stake, but at least the French were liberated from an eternity of stodgy puddings and boiled meats.
Vineyards around Chinon produce some of the Loire’s best reds too. Chinon, Bourgueil, and St Nicolas de Bourgueil are all based on Cabernet Franc. The wines can resemble those from Bordeaux, but the climate here is cooler than southwestern France, so sometimes you’ll find a hint of bell pepper aromas in the Loire, which you’d only find in unripe Bordeaux.
Your dessert wine could come from nearby too. Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume are golden nectars that can age 10-20 years or more.
Whether you’re hosting a three-day feast in your Loire chateau, or planning a romantic Valentines’ dinner for you sweetheart, give the wines of the Loire a try. You won’t break the bank, either.
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